Every woman I know jokes about the chin hair. Nobody told us it was the same hormone as the parting.
Did the tweezers come out around the same time your parting got wider? That is not a coincidence. It is one thing, happening in two places. And it is why none of the supplements worked.
What has stopped growing on my head has started growing on my chin.
Every woman I know has made that joke. I have made it out loud, in a hairdresser's chair, to a stranger.
The tweezers in the car door. The one that turns up overnight and is somehow an inch long.
And in the same year I started making that joke, I was also standing in my bathroom moving my parting from one side to the other, trying to find the side that covered the most.
I never once put those two things together.
They are the same thing.
Not similar. Not related. The same hormone, doing its job, in two different places on my body.
Nobody puts them together. They are two different jokes, in two different rooms, on two different days.
Nobody told me for two years. So I am telling you now.
And here is why that matters more than anything else on this page.
Every hair product I have ever bought was built on one idea. That my hair was starving.
It was not. And I can prove that to you using your own chin, in about ten seconds, before you have spent a penny.
Once you have seen it, every bottle in your bathroom cupboard stops being a disappointment and starts being a mistake with a reason.
That is a far better thing to own. A disappointment tells you nothing. A mistake with a reason tells you exactly what to do next.
It cost me £952 and two years to work that out.
Same hormone. Opposite jobs.
Here it is in four lines. It is not complicated. It has just never been explained to you.
One. You have seen DHT on a bottle — probably a shampoo, probably with the word blocker after it.
Nobody has ever told you what it actually does. So here it is.
Two. DHT talks to hair follicles. That is its job. It tells them what to do.
Three. But it says the opposite thing depending on where the follicle is.
Four. On a chin, DHT turns the follicle up. That is why the one you keep pulling out comes back stronger than anything on your head.
And on the top of your head, the very same hormone turns the follicle down. Smaller. Finer. Shorter.
Why it goes both ways is the part even the researchers find odd. The hormone is identical. What differs is the follicle — the ones on your scalp and the ones on your chin are wired to read the same message in opposite directions, and they have been since before you were born.
Nobody fully knows why. What is not in doubt is that it happens.
Why now, and not at twenty-five
You have had this hormone since you were fifteen. Nothing about it has changed.
What changed is that the oestrogen that used to argue with it has quietly stepped back.
Same hormone. Nothing left holding it off. That is why it turned up this decade and not the last one.
Your hair did not go anywhere. The signal that grows it got switched round.
That is why they arrived in the same year.
It is also why you have been fighting them separately.
Tweezers in one hand. A hair supplement in the other. And the hormone driving both of them carrying on underneath, completely untouched.
Which is why feeding your hair was never going to work
Now go and look at what you have bought.
Every one of those products is built on the same idea. That your follicle is hungry.
Biotin. Collagen. Keratin. Marine complex. Prenatals. The gummies.
They are all deliveries of building material. They all assume the same thing: that the reason your hair is thinner is that your body has run out of something to make it with.
But look at your chin.
Your body is not short of building material. It is building hair perfectly well, at speed, in a place you did not ask for.
Your follicle is not hungry. It is being told what to do.
And you cannot argue with an instruction by sending more bricks.
Nearly a thousand pounds, aimed at hunger, at a follicle that was not hungry.
You will have noticed what is not on that list.
Regaine. It is the one thing on that shelf that genuinely works for some women, and I am not going to pretend otherwise to sell you a softgel.
It is also a bottle you rub into your scalp twice a day for the rest of your life, and when you stop, you give back what it gave you. Some women do both. This is not instead of it.
Before I tell you what we did about that, I have to ask you one thing — because there is a version of this where I am wrong about you.
There is more than one kind. Only one of them is this one.
Three kinds of thinning look identical in a bathroom mirror and want completely different answers.
Getting that wrong is how you spend two years and the best part of a thousand pounds, which is exactly what I did.
So take the next minute on this rather than on anything else on the page.
Signs it is the hormonal kind
- The chin, lip or jaw hair turned up around the same time as the thinning. Or the hair on your arms and legs got coarser while the hair on your head got finer.
- It came on slowly, over years. You cannot name the month it started, and there was no single event three months before it.
- Part your hair at the front and photograph it on your phone. Now part it at the back and photograph that. Hold the two photos side by side. Is the front gap wider? Then it is most likely this kind. Are they the same? Then it is probably something else.
- The hairs in your brush do not match the hair on your head. Shorter. Finer. Almost baby-ish. They are not broken — they grew that way.
- Count the turns. Your bobble used to go round twice. Now it goes round three times, or four, and it still slides. Same length of hair. Less of it.
- Your bloods came back normal — and you got the actual numbers. Push on that one. Ask for the ferritin figure itself, not the word. Twenty-two is "normal" on paper and nowhere near enough for hair. If it comes back at 22, go and fix that first. If it is 85 and your hair is still going, it was never your blood.
Signs it is something else, and this page is not for you
- A sudden heavy shed, all over, two to three months after something. An illness, a baby, an operation, a bereavement — or a weight-loss jab. If you started a weight-loss injection in the last year, that is the sudden kind. It is the speed of the loss rather than the drug, and it usually settles.
- Round bare patches with a clean edge. Different condition entirely. See your GP, not a supplement company.
- Thinning plus exhaustion, feeling cold, or heavy periods. Get your ferritin and thyroid checked properly — and get the numbers, not the word "normal".
- A scalp that is sore, scaly or painful rather than itchy. That needs looking at by somebody who can look at it.
- Facial or body hair that arrived fast rather than gradually — over months, not years — especially alongside periods changing or stopping, new acne, or a voice that has dropped. That combination has a specific set of causes and they are worth ruling out properly. Ask your GP for hormone bloods. That is a conversation with a doctor, not a supplement.
If you are in the second box, close this page and go and do that instead. We would rather lose the sale than take money from somebody we cannot help.
And if you are in the first box — most women who get this far are — then stay, because the next part is the bit I could not find anywhere. Not what you have got. What is actually going on under your parting while you have got it.
What is actually happening at the root
Every hair grows out of a root under your skin. The hair itself is not alive. The root is.
The root works in rounds. It grows a hair for a few years. Then it rests. Then it drops that hair and grows a new one.
It has always done that, your whole life.
So the hair in the plughole is not the problem. It never was.
But DHT sticks to that root. And each time round the cycle, a root with DHT on it comes back a fraction smaller.
A smaller root makes a finer hair.
Do it enough times and the hair coming out is too fine to grow long at all.
It reaches about an inch. Then it gives up.
That is the sentence I sat with for a while, because it explains the wispy bits at my hairline that I had been blaming on breakage for two years. They were not breaking. That was as far as they were ever going to get.
Here is the part that is on your side.
Nothing has died. A root making a one-inch hair is a root that is still working — still going round, just coming back smaller each time.
That is exactly why the hairs in your brush are fine rather than absent, and why the front of your head is thinner rather than bare.
A root that is still growing something is a root you can still do something about.
Two plants. One turns it down. The other keeps it off.
Once you know the problem is a signal and not a shortage, the question changes completely. You stop asking what to feed it. You start asking what to say back.
Two plants answer that, and they answer different halves of it.
Pumpkin seed oil works on how much DHT your body makes in the first place. It turns the tap down at the source.
And it has to be the cold-pressed oil. Powdered seed is a different ingredient wearing the same name, and it is a great deal cheaper to put in a capsule.
Saw palmetto works on the DHT that is already there. It makes it harder for that DHT to get hold of the root in the first place.
And it has to be the standardised extract, not dried berry powder. The extract is what the studies used. The powder is what most bottles contain, at a strength nobody prints.
One turns the tap down. The other stops it sticking.
That is the whole idea. Two plants, two halves of the same signal — and between them, the first thing on that shelf that was ever pointed at the actual problem.
If that is enough for you, the numbers on ours are here.
SEE THE BACK OF OUR BOTTLE£24.99 for a month · £49.99 for three · 120-day money-back guarantee
The rest of this page is how we got to those numbers. It will still be here afterwards.
And now the part nobody selling this will tell you, so we will say it first.
And here is the thing nobody selling this will tell you. The big study everyone quotes about pumpkin seed oil was done on men. Same hormone — but nobody has run the equivalent in women, and I would rather say so than let you find out.
It is the same hormone in women. But I am not going to tell you it all works the same way.
It might not. Nobody has proved that it does.
If somebody tells you it is exactly the same in women, they are guessing.
What is true is that it was men, that the amounts are known, and that nobody has done the equivalent study in women.
What I can be certain about is the amount. And the amount turned out to be the thing nobody would tell me.
So we went and bought thirty bottles
So we knew what to look for. Two plants, in the right forms, at amounts that would actually do something.
My sister Beth reads supplement labels for a living, which I had never once thought to take advantage of.
She came round. We bought thirty-odd bottles — Boots, Holland & Barrett, Superdrug and a lot of Amazon — and put them on the kitchen table.
Almost all of them had pumpkin seed or saw palmetto on the front.
Then we turned them over.
If you have got one of these in a cupboard, go and get it now and turn it over with us. I would rather you found this on the back of your own bottle than took my word for it off mine.
Vitamins and minerals have to be declared with a number. Plants, in practice, mostly are not.
So over and over we found the same thing. A list of plants and one total weight for all of them together. Or the word blend. Or the word complex.
And one bottle listed pumpkin seed as powder, near the bottom of the list, which is where the smallest amounts live. Not the oil. Ground-up seed. Lovely thing to eat. Not the same ingredient.
Nobody was hiding it well, either. In this country the amount of a plant is supposed to be on the label the same way the vitamins are. On a shelf, in practice, it very often is not — and I have never seen anybody pulled up for it.
There is no conspiracy here and we are not going to invent one.
It is just that when telling you is optional and the number is small, nobody tells you.
What we made: two softgels, two numbers on the back
Two softgels. Once a day, with food.
Two, not one.
A thousand milligrams of oil will not fit in one capsule. It only fits in two.
We could have put in half the oil and sold you one capsule. We would rather you swallowed two.
What is printed on the back, and why
1,000 mg cold-pressed pumpkin seed oil, across the two softgels. Cold-pressed, not powdered.
Here is the honest bit. The study everyone quotes used 400 mg. We put in 1,000 mg.
Nobody has tested 1,000 mg. So that was our decision, not a finding.
We went higher because the oil is the expensive part, and the expensive part is where everyone else cuts back.
That is the honest reason and it is not a scientific one, so here is the rest of it. Four hundred milligrams is the only amount anybody has tested. Nobody has run it higher or lower. So we took the one number that exists and went above it rather than below it — because below it is the same guess with less in the bottle.
You are entitled to think that is thin reasoning. It is the reasoning we had.
320 mg saw palmetto extract, standardised to 85–95% fatty acids.
The fatty acids are the part that does the work. So that second number tells you how much of the 320 mg is actually working.
Almost no bottle prints it. Without it, 320 mg tells you nothing.
And the rest of it, with the numbers, because I have just spent a page telling you to look for numbers.
10 mg zinc. 55 µg selenium. 1 mg copper. 1.4 mg vitamin B6. 50 mg of the vitamin E family.
And 100 µg of biotin. Not ten thousand.
A day needs about fifty. We put in twice that, which is plenty.
You will have seen 10,000 µg on a tub. Two hundred times a day’s worth. The extra does not go anywhere useful — and it can throw off a thyroid blood test, which is worth knowing if anybody has ever tested yours.
The wording we are allowed on those is set by law, not by us: zinc, selenium and biotin each contribute to the maintenance of normal hair. Copper contributes to normal hair pigmentation. In a second I will tell you why it matters that we are allowed to say even that much.
One more thing, because it was our own first question. If you are on HRT — patches, gel, or the testosterone as well — there is nothing in here that acts on oestrogen. Take it to whoever prescribes yours anyway. That is what we did.
And yes — there is biotin in ours, after I have spent half this page taking it apart.
Here is why, and it is the strangest thing we learned.
In the UK there is an official list. Only the ingredients on it are allowed to mention hair.
If your bottle has none of them, the label cannot use the word hair at all.
The list is short. For hair it is zinc, selenium, biotin — and copper, which is about hair colour rather than hair.
Plants are not on it. Not pumpkin seed oil. Not saw palmetto.
So a bottle containing nothing but the two plants that actually work at the root cannot legally print the word hair anywhere on itself.
Three keys. One word.
That explains something I could never work out.
Why is biotin in absolutely everything? Not because it works that well. Because without it, the box is not allowed to say hair.
It is not in there because it fixes what you have got. It is in there because without it the box has to stay silent.
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The first five weeks are dead quiet. That is normal.
One thing I want to be straight about first. The chin hair is a clue. It is not something we are offering to fix.
Nothing in the bottle is aimed at your face. It will not stop the chin hair.
The chin hair is only here as a clue. It tells you what is happening on your head.
And no, it does not push the other way either. There is nothing in here that adds androgen. It is aimed at the opposite end — but I am still not going to promise you a smoother chin, because that is not what I have measured and it is not what I am selling.
So it stays a clue. What I want to show you now is where that clue leads.
This is my own diary, taking our own product. I am one person, I am the founder, and I would treat it with as much suspicion as you are about to.
I am including it because the shape of it — particularly the weeks where nothing happened — is the thing I could not find anywhere when I needed it.
What is different now, and none of it is a photograph
Five months.
I deleted my before, and I am suspicious of anybody who happens to have a perfectly lit one.
- I have stopped sweeping it over to one side. It is parted where it wants to be now.
- I put it up on Saturday without thinking about it, and only noticed an hour later in a shop window.
- I sat under the big light in my own kitchen last month and it did not once cross my mind.
- The hat is still by the door. I could not tell you the last time it was on my head.
The tweezers are still in the car door, by the way. The chin hair has not gone anywhere. It was never something we said we could fix, and I am not going to start pretending now.
SEE WHAT IS ACTUALLY IN ITOne bottle is one month · No subscription · Free UK delivery on 3 and 5
What it costs, and why we say three months
One bottle is one month.
Before the number, two lines off that receipt.
A hundred and eighty pounds on a tub whose amount nobody would tell me. Two hundred and forty on a shampoo aimed at hair that had already finished growing.
£952. Two years. Not one strand.
| 1 bottle · one month | £24.99 |
| 3 bottles · £16.66 a month | £49.99 |
| 5 bottles · £15.00 a month | £74.99 |
Three months is £49.99.
I was spending about forty pounds a month on things that did nothing. So three months of this costs less than two months of that.
And this time it is aimed at the right thing.
This is not a subscription. You buy the bottles you buy. Nothing renews, nothing arrives that you did not ask for, and there is nothing to remember to cancel.
There is no countdown on this page and there is not going to be one.
And the question nobody answers: how long do you take it for?
For as long as you want to keep it. The hormone does not go away, so nothing that works on it carries on working once you stop — and that is just as true of the bottle you rub in.
I am five months in and I have no plans to stop. I would rather tell you that now than let you find it out in month four.
A hundred and twenty days, and how to judge it
So you are not relying on a feeling in a mirror.
Count the turns of your bobble this week. Write the number on the back of the box. It is the one measurement you cannot argue yourself out of.
Look at the plug after a shower. Then notice, some week, that you have stopped looking.
Take those two photos again at week twelve, the front parting and the back one, and put all four side by side.
Count your turns again after a hundred and twenty days.
Same number as when you started? Email us and we give you your money back.
You do not have to post the bottle back. And nobody is going to ring you up and try to change your mind.
START THE THREE MONTHS£49.99 for three · 120-day money-back guarantee
You could buy the two of them separately. Here is how.
You could just buy the two plants separately, in two bottles, from anywhere. You will think of that yourself sooner or later. So I would rather go through it with you now.
Saw palmetto on its own is around eight pounds a month. Cold-pressed pumpkin seed oil on its own is around twelve. Add a zinc, selenium and biotin bottle and you are at twenty-five to thirty.
So twenty-five to thirty pounds a month, across three bottles. It is a perfectly sensible thing to do.
Three bottles on the shelf instead of one
Two plants plus the minerals is three bottles, three lids, three things to run out of at different times. Sounds like nothing. It is not nothing at month four, on a Tuesday, when you are tired.
The checking
At the cheap end, the pumpkin bottle is usually ground seed, or an oil at two or three hundred milligrams.
The third bottle
Zinc, selenium and biotin. Buy the two plants alone and you have none of those.
So doing it yourself is not actually cheaper.
Doing it yourself properly comes to twenty-five or thirty a month, across three bottles. Ours is sixteen sixty-six a month if you take three, fifteen if you take five.
And if you would still rather do it yourself, do it yourself.
Buy cold-pressed pumpkin seed oil, not seed powder, and check the back says a thousand milligrams. Buy saw palmetto extract and check it says three hundred and twenty. Take them with food.
That is the whole recipe. I have just told you how not to buy from us — and if you do go that way, read the last six lines first, because most of what goes wrong with this happens after the bottle arrives, not before.
What to do tonight
- Work out which kind you have. Go back to the two boxes. If you are in the second one, do that instead, and do it this week.
- Then go and get whatever is in your cupboard and turn it round. Look for a number next to the plant you bought it for. Not the vitamins — those are always there. The plant.
- If it says blend, complex or proprietary and there are no milligrams, put it back. You do not know what you have been taking, and neither does anybody else.
- Do the same to ours. 1,000 mg cold-pressed pumpkin seed oil and 320 mg saw palmetto extract, standardised, across two softgels.
- Count your turns before you start. Write the number down. It is your baseline and it costs you nothing.
- Then give it three months. Expect the first five weeks to be silent. Knowing that is normal is most of the battle.
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The joke is still funny. I still make it.
I just know what it is telling me now.
Ellie and Beth
HALO Hair
P.S. — I do not really mind the money. What I mind is the two years.
Two years of thinking I had two separate jokes that turned up in the same year. It was one thing.
Nobody ever said so. Once somebody did, every bottle I had bought made sense — as a mistake.
P.P.S. — If you take one thing from this page and never buy anything from us, take this: the front of a label is marketing. The back of a label is a document.